Vagamon , Kerala

Friends and travel are two of life's most precious treasures and when they intertwine it is absolutely enchanting. 

One such journey was our trip to Vagamon...

Tea gardens at Vagamon

We started our trip taking a flight to 

View point 

Cochin and then, hopped into the cabs with our baggages, which were packed for the next three days. The journey to Vagamon along the ghat roads, was like a beautiful painting, with tea gardens, valleys, and tall pine trees. The fresh mountain air welcomed us, to this misty hill town, nestled at an altitude of 1200 meters on the borders of Kottayam-Idukki district in Kerala.

On the way to Vagamon, we made a stop at the Malankara dam, a gravity dam built across the Thodupuzha river for the purpose of irrigation. This picturesque reservoir serves as a popular spot to halt for tourists heading to Vagamon.

Malankara Dam

Grasmere Resorts
(Pic courtesy Aravind)

Our accommodation for 3 days and 3 nights was at Grasmere Resorts, surrounded by lush tea gardens and tall trees. The resort was ideally situated atop a small hill, offering comfortable rooms and delicious breakfast and dinner spreads. 

Vagamon boasts of numerous attractions to explore, but due to its hilly terrain, travel times can be long. It's best to heed to the recommendations of the locals and visit the popular spots. We explored a few places and spent our evenings unwinding at the resort.

A misty morning at Vagamon

Vagamon Meadows encompasses a collection of small lush meadows spread across a large area, making it an ideal destination for group visits. The sheer beauty of these meadows sets as an ideal spot for many film shoots.

The Pine Forest 

Vagamon Pine Forest sprawls across an expansive region, with towering pine trees thriving on the steep slopes of the valley. This man-made forest was established during the British rule in India and is another spot worth visiting. 

Outside the dam premise

The Idukki Arch Dam, is one of the tallest arch dams in Asia. It stands as a spectacular sight situated on the River Periyar nestled between two hills Kuravathi and Kuravan. The surrounding area is adorned with lush greenery, and the reservoir serves as a popular destination for both locals and tourists. One can spend time walking across the dam to enjoy it's magnitude and architecture. (Photography is prohibited here)

At KPM Farms

KPM Farms is a recently established attraction featuring an artificial cascade and lake set on a breathtaking view. Additionally it boasts of a small eatery which serves freshly caught fish. The main highlight at this tourist spot is the coracle ride. 

The coracle ride

Our time spent at Vagamon was a collage of exquisite moments. On our return to the airport, we made a deliberate stop at Vazhakulam to savour the most delectable varieties of pineapples, almost like concluding our trip with a delightful dessert. This place is aptly referred to as the Pineapple City of India and is the largest producer of the sweetest variety of Pineapples in the country. The streets of Vazhakulam are heaped with abundance of pineapples. The local vendors take immense pride in showcasing their skills of artfully cutting and serving the fruit, and tempting us to bring some home. 

Pineapples at Vazhakulam

The saying "Friends that travel together, stay together," holds true, as we make plans to our next destination to create more such memories together.. 

* During our trip, we also visited Thekkady from Vagamon, which will feature in my next post ...  

Witnessing History - The Launch of Aditya L1, Sriharikota, Andhra Pradesh

In September of last year, amidst the excitement following the successful launch of Chandrayaan 3, plans were underway for the launch of Aditya L1 into the sun's orbit. Our dear friend, Nigar, was appointed as the Project Director for this mission, filling us with immense pride and joy.

With Nigar Shaji (PD Aditya L1) and
 Veeramuthuvel (PD Chandrayaan 3)

Nigar Shaji, originally from Sengottai,  graduated at the Govt College of Engineering, Tirunelveli, where our paths first crossed. She later pursued her postgraduate studies at Brila Institute of Technology, Mesra. Nigar joined the UR Rao Satellite Centre in Bengaluru as a scientist in 1987. Over the course of her 35-year tenure at ISRO, she held key roles in various missions, including being the associate project director of Resourcesat-2A and the program director for lower orbit and planetary missions. Additionally, she is overseeing India's mission to Venus.

On the morning of September 2, 2023, armed with the passes provided by Nigar, we eagerly made our way to the Satish Dhawan Space Centre in Sriharikota. The roads leading to the Launch View Gallery were bustling with vehicles from both private individuals and educational institutions, all eager to witness the historic launch of Aditya L1.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by stringent security measures, and as pass holders, we were granted access to the auditorium within the secure confines of the space center. The atmosphere was charged with anticipation as attendees watched footage of the preparations at the launchpad and learned about the objectives of the mission. Aditya L1, is India's first solar observatory, aimed to study the dynamics of the Sun continuously from the Lagrange point L1. 

As the countdown began, the crowd shuffled around the terrace to secure the best vantage point. The tension in the air was palpable as the Indian Space Research Organisation prepared to make history with the launch of India's first dedicated solar observation mission.

All eyes squinted upward to the clear sky. The count down started, and we could feel goosebumps... three, two, one, ... and eyes stopped to batter. A few seconds of nothing and then there was a collective gasp. The fiery jetstream cut into the skies, as if in slow motion, ascending higher and higher, leaving a theatrical smoky trail. For once, selfie sticks dangled loose, cameras were held up, but the eyes peeked above the lenses, not to miss an iota moment of this grand feat.

It was a sensory experience: first, the  awe-inspiring visual, and then, as the speed of sound caught up, the roar of the engine, enough to rattle  the building. The crowd stood still looking up even after the rocket had disappeared to a shiny dot. The launch lasted for just two minutes, yet it was the most enthralling experience one could ever have and left a lasting impression on all those present. The achievements of the ISRO and 8 years of hard work of Nigar Shaji and her team ensured the date Sept 02, 2023, be etched with memories that would last a lifetime.

Nigar Shaji has been bestowed with numerous prestigious accolades in the realm of space science, including the ISRO Distinguished Scientist Award and the Dr. Vikram Sarabhai Memorial Award. Recently, she has been recognized by the state government for her significant contributions to space research and at The Times Now Amazing Indian Awards 2023. Nigar Shaji serves as a beacon of inspiration and a role model for aspiring young women in STEM disciplines, thereby setting a commendable example for future generations of women scientists.

Wishing them many more missions to accomplish... 

During the felicitation by TN govt

The Muppandal Wind Farms, Tamil Nadu

The best part of any road trip is, that we gets to see the least expected views making us pause, to admire the scenes at our own pace. The usual monotonous drive can suddenly become completely different and exhilarating. At times an usual water body or the setting sun creates the most picturesque hues. The glimpses of such brief moments stay etched longer in our memories than the destination itself.   

One such awestruck moments while traveling on the Tirunelveli - Kanniyakumari highways are the rows and rows of wind turbines at Muppandal wind farms. Little did we expect the towering white wind turbines to travel with us for miles, which are spread across villages of Valliyur to Anjugrammam. Thousands of windmills, dot both sides of the highway all spinning with the winds blown from the seas which is 30-40km away. The sheer expanse of this project against the ghats, as far as eyes see is a sight to behold.  

The lush green ghats on either sides of the roads contrasting with stark white windmills makes one stop to just absorb the abundance of resources nature has given us to use. This breathtaking landscape is rightfully called as "The Netherlands of India" by the locals. 

The huge blades and cylindrical drums we see on the 18 wheeler vehicles chugging on these highways, all seem to make sense, as we realise that they were heading to this destination - the Muppandal wind farms. 

The hilly terrains of Muppandal, makes it an ideal place for the wind from the Arabian Sea to gust through mountain passes to produce wind energy. Most of the windmills of this wind farm are located along the Aralvaimozhi pass which are topographically suited for the wind flow. 
Tamil Nadu has been the leading producer of this renewable green energy in India for the past few decades. It accounts for around 50% of the wind power generated in the country. The Muppandal wind farms are developed by the state-owned, TN Energy Development Agency and is country's largest operational onshore wind farms. 

Scattered across the villages of Kanyakumari -Tirunelveli the wind mills have not only changed the livelihood of the locals, but have also added to the scenic visual delight to the passers-by. 

A note on Kayathar

Kayathar wind farms are located in the wind-rich land of Thoothukodi, between Kovilpatti and Tirunelveli and is the country 's pioneer region where windmills were first installed. This project was commissioned in 1990s with wind turbines, each of 200-kilowatt capacity. Slowly many villages around this belt started converting their agricultural lands to wind farm as it was lucrative and agriculture was taking a back step amongst the youth. 

Many of these turbines, are nearing the end of  its lifecycle of 20/25 years. Generally, a wind turbine generators at the end of service life exhibit high breakdown and require repairs. Maintenance of these wind turbines have become difficult due to the shortage of replacement parts and technological advancements.  Many proposals to repower these turbines have been constantly faced with obstacles as repowering is not only a costly affair, but also requires more land, wider roads, consent of all turbine owners in joint projects and indigenous manufacturing capabilities. All these factors have stalled this green energy project at Kayathar wind farms... 

... and we cont.. our journey crossing these turbines of Kayathar which stand lifeless hoping for better days to come... 

Chettinad, Tamil Nadu

A trip to Chettinad, Tamil Nadu is not complete without a visit to the tourists' architectural delights of  Kanadukathan, Athangudi and Pallathur, the main town panchayats of Karaikudi taluk. During our trip for a wedding to Karaikudi we kept a day to include these places to  complete a Chettinad tour. 

Our stay was at one of the houses at Pallathur and this region is more densely populated with narrow straight lanes and a mix of both huge and smaller houses. Few houses have been converted as homestays while many are locked and seem uninhabited.

As we enter Chettinad we can see board signs to Kanadukathan. This part of Chettinad is the home to historic Chettiar mansions built in the early 1900s by a group of  Nattukottai Chettiar community who were native to this place. They were traders since the time of the Chola Empire in the 12th century and dominated regional trade finance in Southeast Asia during the 19th and early 20th centuries. They dealt in a wide variety of items, such as teak, silk, and spices, as far afield as Sri Lanka, Burma, Malaya, and Indonesia. Chettiars’ successful business ventures as merchants mostly overseas funded these impressive structures. The huge profits made were poured back into the Chettinad district of Tamil Nadu. Different families competed with each other to build bigger mansions. All the extended families lived under the same roof thus leading to the construction of these palatial structures with dozens of bedrooms, large kitchens, courtyards and communal dining halls. 

The interiors of these massive mansions are of teak, cedar and marbles brought from Srilanka and  Burma. The entryways have a grandiose temple like portals. The intricately carved heavy teak doors make up an imposing entrance. 

The walls of the mansions are built with bricks plastered with a type of limestone known as Karai. According to locals a mixture of egg whites and  palm sugar were used to give a smooth texture and polish. The floors of these mansions are the most appealing, laid with designed tiles from Italy of eastern era and locally made that of Athangudi. 

As we take a stroll on the empty streets of Kanadukathan, creaky gates and sloppy trees adorn on either sides. Nearing one of the newly painted gates, brightly coloured mansions of white, yellow and turquoise, stands tall, the homes of the Chettinad merchants. Most of these mansions are vacant with a caretaker acting as a guide to show the house around. He stated that the families gathers for weddings and during vacations. The chettiar weddings as a tradition are conducted in these palatial mansions. These mansions are a pride of opulence to the families and with the younger generations migrating to urban settlements this tiny hamlet feels like a living museum on most days. 

One of the grandest of these houses is the Chettinadu Palace which was built in 1902 by Rajah Annamalai Chettiar. Tourists need to take special permission to access this place. A part of it has been converted as a hotel and museum.  One can view this mammoth architectural structure from roads adjoining it. 

The Thousand Window House is another huge mansion at Kanadukathan which is again not open to guests. The mansion's façade is adorned with ornate woodwork and elaborate carvings, and is said to house a 1000 windows.

 
Athangudi village is about 24km from Karaikudi and has a population of about 2000 inhabitants and is mainly known for tiles and furniture. 

The Athangudi floor tiles are handmade by a unique and elaborate process using the local soil. One can visit the Athangudi Tile Palace to have an hands-on experience on making of these tiles. The locals demonstrate the different process involved and one can order and also buy a tile too for keep sake. These tiles weave a tale of  tradition with a myriad of colours and style. Majority of the villagers have sustained the art of tile-making through generations and have made it a trademark of their own. 

Athangudi Palace is near the tile-making factory and  plays the pivotal role in bringing Chettinad heritage to life. It was opened to  public after commendable efforts from the family members in 2010. 

The palace is a beautiful fusion of European and Asian architecture. Japanese tiles blend beautifully with the Athangudi ones while classy Italian marble enhances the colors of both. The Belgian glass windows create a kaleidoscope of colors on the floor and around the Burma teakwood pillars and doors which are engraved with a plethora of intricacies. The paintings and chandeliers ornate the interiors lavishly. It is this whole medley of décor that makes this palace grand and very different from any other Chettiar houses.  

Places like Kanadukathan and Athangudi are living exhibits of the rich architecture and heritage of Chettiars. As tourists we not only marvel at the architectural splendor but also gain insight into the lifestyle and cultural nuances of the Chettiars during their heyday. 

The tradition and culture the community upholds, of families coming together for occasions to the homeland, despite moving to different corners and protecting their ancestral homes as treasures, with pride is indeed commendable.

A trip to a village festival, Echambadi, Tamilnadu

 

Being a city bred and having access to visit sweeping beaches, big temples, fortification and monuments it has always been a pleasure traveling to quaint places away from city life.

When a friend invited us to be part of his village annual Pongal festival, the planning started in full glee. We set off to join the family and other friends to celebrate with the Senguttai villagers. 

Nestled in Dharmapuri district, off Kariambadi - Harur  road is this small village Echambadi. This village is known for its dam and few small but ancient temples. The Echambadi dam is an anicut over the Thenpennai river which stores water released from KRP at Krishnagiri. These are the main sources of water for irrigation in Tamil Nadu. It is surprising to note, that this tiny village holds an integral part in the state's agriculture. 

As we drive into this laid back fertile lands, scenes of cattles grazing lush green grass, a local government school, people chatting under huge banyan trees, and few houses scattered far from each other, each having their own fields and cattle sheds welcome us. Our host's home was a well planned, neat abode with a huge sit out. He had specially decorated it with colorful shamiyanas and laid out coir cots, chairs and tables and made elaborate arrangements to make our stay as comfortable as possible. Their family welcomed us with open arms and warm smiles that made us bond as one amongst them right away. We were treated with gracious hospitality of food and company that time flew as we kept wanting to stay longer.

With the hosts and friends 

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The close knit villagers gather together on Kannu Pongal (3rd day after Pongal festival) every year at the Munieashwaran temple of this village. The day starts early with the ladies of the family preparing the offerings and visiting the temple. The whole village slowly gathers for the puja and ceremonies like ear piercing, hair torturing, naming are also performed during this time. The Puja is performed for the idols of Jada muni, Sem Muni and Vaal Muni with much devotion which is followed by rituals and practices of this region and a grand feast. 

Just a glimpse into the vibrant festival and rituals that form the cultural fabric of this region makes you spellbound to the unity and integrity they value in family bonding down generations. Little did we realise the impact this trip would have on us to cherish a lifetime and bond with an entire community. 

As we wandered through the picturesque farms, time slows down and nature takes the center stage. The birds, the trees, the setting sun, the soothing breeze become an unforgettable experience and leave an impact on our souls. Every moment leaves you with a deeper connection to the land, its people, their values, their culinary delights and the bountiful harvest practices that the generations have sustained.

Though Agro tourism is one thriving industry in Tamil Nadu where one experiences the activities of farm lands, it lacks this warmth of people and their true culture and traditions carried with devotion through generations - the real essence of rural Tamil Nadu. Though the younger generations have moved to urban areas for education and business it is indeed beautiful to see them awaiting this festival to gather and take part as one big family. Our trip to this region has left an indelible mark on our souls and awe at the supremely rich culture and heritage the people of this region proudly uphold. 

The pics shared are clicked by my friend Aravind and are copyright 

Follow the link below for more of his clicks 

https://www.instagram.com/a_aravindhan?igsh=aDRkMmV4Mm9laTJ6

Gangaikondan Cholapuram, Tamilnadu

A visit to Gangaikondan Cholapuram had been on our list for a long time and we finally logged it in Nov'23 during a road trip to Thanjore and Kumbakonam. Gangaikondan Cholapuram, is a small town located at about 34 km from Kumbakonam. 

This place houses the grand  Gangaikondancholisvarar temple which is one among the three great living Chola Temples. UNESCO has recently declared it as a World Heritage site and it is under the control of ASI and HR&CE. The other two are the Brihadeeshwarar (Big) Temple at Thanjore and the Airavatheswarar Temple at Darasuram near Kumbakonam.

Though this temple replicates the Big Temple at Thanjore in many ways, it has its own unique grandeur and style. The art, engravings and architecture depicts the living history of the Cholas rule

Rajendra-I succeeded the Great Chola King, Raja Raja Cholan, and ruled the Chola dynasty for over three decades. 

Following the conquest of the Gangetic plains in A.D. 1023 Rajendra–I built  this city  Gangaikondacholapauram, the temple  Gangaikondacholisvarar and a lake Chola Gangam in commemoration of his victory. The place, the temple and the lake are the living embodiments of the heroism of the Tamils who unfurled the Chola‘s Tiger flag on the banks of the River Ganges.

Rajendra-I also shifted the capital from Thanjore to this newly built town and it remained the capital till the end of Chola Empire. 

This magnificent monument standing tall amongst  greenery in a quiet laidback town is definitely a must visit place in Tamilnadu.  

A little detour on NH 36 towards Chennai is another must see for its mere expanse, is the Veeranam or the Veeranarayanan Lake, the main water source for Chennai city. It is 14kms long and is one of the longest artificial lake in the world.  

This lake was constructed in 9th century AD by a Chola King Rajaditya. The opening chapter of the book *Ponniyin Selvan is set on the banks of this Lake. Kalki gives an elaborate description of the features of the lake and the way multiple rivers flow into it.

The drive takes you through picturesque view of the lake on one side and small hamlets on the other. There is a birds sighting spot along this stretch. Since we crossed this place around mid-day we stopped only for few minutes to awe at the blue expanse of water meeting the skies and click a picture... 

  *  https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ponniyin_Selvan