Jagannath Temple, Puri, Orissa

A wedding in Bhubaneswar last year,  made our long awaited trip to the Jagannath temple, Puri, possible. 

The Jagannath Temple at Puri, Odisha, is a Hindu pilgrimage site and one of the Char Dham. This temple is dedicated to Lord Jagannath (Vishnu), and his siblings Balabhadra and Subhadra. 

Unlike most Hindu shrines that use stone or metal, the idols of the Gods are made of neem wood. These idols are  replaced every 12 to 19 years through a ceremony, Nabakalebara.

The story of Jagannath 

According to legends, the first Jagannath temple was commissioned by King Indradyumna. The king upon hearing the powers of the deity,  Lord Neela Madhaba sent a priest, Vidyapati, to locate the deity, which was worshipped secretly in a cave by the sarvar tribals. Vidyapati marked his way back from the cave and led King Indradyumna, to the place. But to their surprise the idol could not be found. The king took a fast at Mount Neela till a celestial voice guided him to build a temple. 

He constructed a temple for Lord Vishnu and following the divine vision, created the idols of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra, Subhadra, and Sudarshan chakra from sacred wood. 

It is believed Sage Narada was directed to bring the Divine Log of wood to the altar. Shri Visvakarma, disguised as a carpenter, came forward to carve the idols. He asked for 21 days to complete the job and not to be distributed. On the 14th day the anxious queen urged the king to open the door. At the altar stood the unfinished idols and the carpenter had vanished. A divine voice directed King Indradyumana to install the unfinished idols, at the temple near the Kalpabata tree. 

The Jagannath Temple at Puri, was built during the 12th century, and is a masterpiece of Kalinga architecture. It features a 65-meter tall curvilinear spire (Rekha Deula) and a massive complex spanning over 400,000 square feet. The structure consists of four main, interconnected halls—Vimana (sanctum), Jagamohan (porch), Natamandapa (dance hall), and Bhoga Mandapa (offering hall)—surrounded by high fortified walls, the Meghanada Pacheri. 

Sri Panduranga Temple, Tamilnadu 

The Thennangur Panduranga Temple in Tamil Nadu is modeled after the Puri Jagannath Temple in Odisha, featuring similar Kalinga-style architecture.The entrances of the temple are of gopurams (south Indian style) and the main shrine is that of the Puri Jagannath Temple.

 It features a 120-foot tall tower adorned with a gold kalasam, Sudarshana Chakra, and a saffron flag. The main idol, brought from Pandharpur by Swami Haridas Giri 500 years ago, depicts Lord Panduranga at 11 feet and his consort Rukmayee at 8.5 feet. This temple also includes rare idols, such as Achyutaraja Perumal, and a 16-pillared Maha-Mandap which is used for weddings and cultural activities during festivals.

 

Shravanabelagola, Karnataka

 

Shravanabelagola, is located about 150 km from Bangalore, Karnataka and has  been a significant center for Jain art, architecture, religion, and culture for over two thousand years. The town became prominent when Bhagawan Bhadrabahu, a key Jain Acharya, arrived from Ujjain with his disciples. Influenced by him, emperor Chandragupta Maurya settled in this area and passed his kingdom to his son to rule.

A notable landmark in Shravanabelagola is the 18-meter tall monolithic statue of Lord Gomateshwara, a revered Jain saint. It is situated atop Vidyangiri hill and is recognized as one of the tallest and most graceful monolithic statues in the world.   The statue is carved out of a single piece of granite and stands at 57 feet. It is regarded as one of the largest free-standing statues in the world. It symbolizes the Jains ideolgy of peace, non-violence, and renunciation. 

History of Lord Gomateshwara (Bahubali) 

Bahubali, the son of the first Jain Teerthankara, Lord Adinatha, fought his brother Bharatha for the throne in a duel that tested various skills. Although he won, Bahubali was disillusioned by the pursuit of material wealth and chose to renounce his kingdom and worldly pleasures. He entered in a deep meditation, embodying spiritual tranquility.  Bahubali meditated motionlessly in a standing position for a year, during which plants grew along his legs. After this period, he attained Kevala Gyana and became a respected figure among the Jain community.

In 981 AD, Chavundaraya, the prime minister of the Ganga Kingdom, commissioned a statue of Bahubali in this meditative pose. 

Nearby on Chandragiri, houses memorials and basadis of various other Jaina sramanas or monks who meditated and lived here, including the last Rashtrakuta king, Manyakheta.

Mahamastakabhisheka is a significant event held every twelve years at Shravanabelagola, where the statue of Bahubali is anointed with various substances, including water, turmeric, and gold flowers. This event draws thousands of tourists and pilgrims, with the next celebration planned for 2030.

Ambasamudram, Tamil Nadu

 

Ambasamudram, a charming town in Tamil Nadu's Tirunelveli district, is famous for its natural beauty and greenery, thanks to the mighty Thamirabarani River that flows through it. Also known as Vilankurichi, Ambasamudram has a rich history as the home of the revered saint Agastiyar, who made immense contributions to the Tamil language many centuries ago.

Thamirabharani river through the town 

This town is dotted with ancient temples and has many is a popular tourist spot, like the Mundanthurai-Kalakad Tiger Reserve,  the Papanasam dam, Agasthiyar falls, Manimutthaar Dam & Waterfall, Karaiyar Dam, Manjolai Hills, and Vikramasingapuram.

Manimuthar falls

 We made a two day halt at this town during our road trip, to take our time and explore it at leisure. The Ambai Grand hotel were we stayed was cozy and the local food available around it made our trip even more enjoyable. 

Manimuthar dam at the back

About 50 km from Tirunelveli, is the Manimuthar Dam, the largest reservoir in the district. It offers a serene spot with beautiful gardens, ideal for picnics. At 6 km from the dam is the Manimuthar Falls.  The Thamarabarani river tumbles down 25 ft into a serene pond, creating a natural fall to cool one's self. 

Agasthiyar falls

Ambasamudram is also home to man-made dams like the Papanasam dam and Karaiyar dam. Tourists flock in huge numbers to explore the Papanasam Waterfall, known for its mythological significance and is also known as the Agasthiyar falls.  

Hydro electric project in Papanasam

Another place of importance nestled in these hills is the ancient temple which has great relevance to devotees from all over. The Sori Muthu ayyanar temple, one of the six important sastha temples in Tamil Nadu. 

Sori Muthu Ayyanar temple

Sorimuthu Ayyanar serves as the kuladevata for numerous families residing in the region. Families who may not be familiar with their kuladevata are also encouraged to visit here and offer prayers. It is also the primary Ayyappan temple, where pilgrims embarking to Sabarimala visit this temple to receive their mala.

Kanniyakumari, Tamil Nadu

 

Kanniyakumari holds a distinct status in various aspects, and we had the opportunity to explore this remarkable destination during our road trip in August of the previous year.

Sunrise 

 Situated at the southernmost point of the Indian mainland, it possesses a unique geographical feature as it serves as the convergence point for three significant water bodies: the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and the Indian Ocean. This exceptional characteristic contributes to its status as one of the most sought-after destinations in India.

Owing to its strategic location, Kanniyakumari offers the rare opportunity to witness both the sunrise and sunset along its coastlines. Moreover, it stands as the sole location in India where one can observe the captivating phenomenon of the simultaneous occurrence of the sunset and moonrise during Full Moon days.

Vivekananda Rock 

Thiruvalluvar Statue

Among the notable attractions in this region, the Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the Statue of Thiruvalluvar hold immense popularity. These two landmarks are situated adjacently in the sea and can be conveniently accessed via frequent ferry services.

Memorial from the island 

Vagamon , Kerala

Friends and travel are two of life's most precious treasures and when they intertwine it is absolutely enchanting. 

One such journey was our trip to Vagamon...

Tea gardens at Vagamon

We started our trip taking a flight to 

View point 

Cochin and then, hopped into the cabs with our baggages, which were packed for the next three days. The journey to Vagamon along the ghat roads, was like a beautiful painting, with tea gardens, valleys, and tall pine trees. The fresh mountain air welcomed us, to this misty hill town, nestled at an altitude of 1200 meters on the borders of Kottayam-Idukki district in Kerala.

On the way to Vagamon, we made a stop at the Malankara dam, a gravity dam built across the Thodupuzha river for the purpose of irrigation. This picturesque reservoir serves as a popular spot to halt for tourists heading to Vagamon.

Malankara Dam

Grasmere Resorts
(Pic courtesy Aravind)

Our accommodation for 3 days and 3 nights was at Grasmere Resorts, surrounded by lush tea gardens and tall trees. The resort was ideally situated atop a small hill, offering comfortable rooms and delicious breakfast and dinner spreads. 

Vagamon boasts of numerous attractions to explore, but due to its hilly terrain, travel times can be long. It's best to heed to the recommendations of the locals and visit the popular spots. We explored a few places and spent our evenings unwinding at the resort.

A misty morning at Vagamon

Vagamon Meadows encompasses a collection of small lush meadows spread across a large area, making it an ideal destination for group visits. The sheer beauty of these meadows sets as an ideal spot for many film shoots.

The Pine Forest 

Vagamon Pine Forest sprawls across an expansive region, with towering pine trees thriving on the steep slopes of the valley. This man-made forest was established during the British rule in India and is another spot worth visiting. 

Outside the dam premise

The Idukki Arch Dam, is one of the tallest arch dams in Asia. It stands as a spectacular sight situated on the River Periyar nestled between two hills Kuravathi and Kuravan. The surrounding area is adorned with lush greenery, and the reservoir serves as a popular destination for both locals and tourists. One can spend time walking across the dam to enjoy it's magnitude and architecture. (Photography is prohibited here)

At KPM Farms

KPM Farms is a recently established attraction featuring an artificial cascade and lake set on a breathtaking view. Additionally it boasts of a small eatery which serves freshly caught fish. The main highlight at this tourist spot is the coracle ride. 

The coracle ride

Our time spent at Vagamon was a collage of exquisite moments. On our return to the airport, we made a deliberate stop at Vazhakulam to savour the most delectable varieties of pineapples, almost like concluding our trip with a delightful dessert. This place is aptly referred to as the Pineapple City of India and is the largest producer of the sweetest variety of Pineapples in the country. The streets of Vazhakulam are heaped with abundance of pineapples. The local vendors take immense pride in showcasing their skills of artfully cutting and serving the fruit, and tempting us to bring some home. 

Pineapples at Vazhakulam

The saying "Friends that travel together, stay together," holds true, as we make plans to our next destination to create more such memories together.. 

* During our trip, we also visited Thekkady from Vagamon, which will feature in my next post ...  

Chettinad, Tamil Nadu

A trip to Chettinad, Tamil Nadu is not complete without a visit to the tourists' architectural delights of  Kanadukathan, Athangudi and Pallathur, the main town panchayats of Karaikudi taluk. During our trip for a wedding to Karaikudi we kept a day to include these places to  complete a Chettinad tour. 

Our stay was at one of the houses at Pallathur and this region is more densely populated with narrow straight lanes and a mix of both huge and smaller houses. Few houses have been converted as homestays while many are locked and seem uninhabited.

As we enter Chettinad we can see board signs to Kanadukathan. This part of Chettinad is the home to historic Chettiar mansions built in the early 1900s by a group of  Nattukottai Chettiar community who were native to this place. They were traders since the time of the Chola Empire in the 12th century and dominated regional trade finance in Southeast Asia during the 19th and early 20th centuries. They dealt in a wide variety of items, such as teak, silk, and spices, as far afield as Sri Lanka, Burma, Malaya, and Indonesia. Chettiars’ successful business ventures as merchants mostly overseas funded these impressive structures. The huge profits made were poured back into the Chettinad district of Tamil Nadu. Different families competed with each other to build bigger mansions. All the extended families lived under the same roof thus leading to the construction of these palatial structures with dozens of bedrooms, large kitchens, courtyards and communal dining halls. 

The interiors of these massive mansions are of teak, cedar and marbles brought from Srilanka and  Burma. The entryways have a grandiose temple like portals. The intricately carved heavy teak doors make up an imposing entrance. 

The walls of the mansions are built with bricks plastered with a type of limestone known as Karai. According to locals a mixture of egg whites and  palm sugar were used to give a smooth texture and polish. The floors of these mansions are the most appealing, laid with designed tiles from Italy of eastern era and locally made that of Athangudi. 

As we take a stroll on the empty streets of Kanadukathan, creaky gates and sloppy trees adorn on either sides. Nearing one of the newly painted gates, brightly coloured mansions of white, yellow and turquoise, stands tall, the homes of the Chettinad merchants. Most of these mansions are vacant with a caretaker acting as a guide to show the house around. He stated that the families gathers for weddings and during vacations. The chettiar weddings as a tradition are conducted in these palatial mansions. These mansions are a pride of opulence to the families and with the younger generations migrating to urban settlements this tiny hamlet feels like a living museum on most days. 

One of the grandest of these houses is the Chettinadu Palace which was built in 1902 by Rajah Annamalai Chettiar. Tourists need to take special permission to access this place. A part of it has been converted as a hotel and museum.  One can view this mammoth architectural structure from roads adjoining it. 

The Thousand Window House is another huge mansion at Kanadukathan which is again not open to guests. The mansion's façade is adorned with ornate woodwork and elaborate carvings, and is said to house a 1000 windows.

 
Athangudi village is about 24km from Karaikudi and has a population of about 2000 inhabitants and is mainly known for tiles and furniture. 

The Athangudi floor tiles are handmade by a unique and elaborate process using the local soil. One can visit the Athangudi Tile Palace to have an hands-on experience on making of these tiles. The locals demonstrate the different process involved and one can order and also buy a tile too for keep sake. These tiles weave a tale of  tradition with a myriad of colours and style. Majority of the villagers have sustained the art of tile-making through generations and have made it a trademark of their own. 

Athangudi Palace is near the tile-making factory and  plays the pivotal role in bringing Chettinad heritage to life. It was opened to  public after commendable efforts from the family members in 2010. 

The palace is a beautiful fusion of European and Asian architecture. Japanese tiles blend beautifully with the Athangudi ones while classy Italian marble enhances the colors of both. The Belgian glass windows create a kaleidoscope of colors on the floor and around the Burma teakwood pillars and doors which are engraved with a plethora of intricacies. The paintings and chandeliers ornate the interiors lavishly. It is this whole medley of décor that makes this palace grand and very different from any other Chettiar houses.  

Places like Kanadukathan and Athangudi are living exhibits of the rich architecture and heritage of Chettiars. As tourists we not only marvel at the architectural splendor but also gain insight into the lifestyle and cultural nuances of the Chettiars during their heyday. 

The tradition and culture the community upholds, of families coming together for occasions to the homeland, despite moving to different corners and protecting their ancestral homes as treasures, with pride is indeed commendable.

Gangaikondan Cholapuram, Tamilnadu

A visit to Gangaikondan Cholapuram had been on our list for a long time and we finally logged it in Nov'23 during a road trip to Thanjore and Kumbakonam. Gangaikondan Cholapuram, is a small town located at about 34 km from Kumbakonam. 

This place houses the grand  Gangaikondancholisvarar temple which is one among the three great living Chola Temples. UNESCO has recently declared it as a World Heritage site and it is under the control of ASI and HR&CE. The other two are the Brihadeeshwarar (Big) Temple at Thanjore and the Airavatheswarar Temple at Darasuram near Kumbakonam.

Though this temple replicates the Big Temple at Thanjore in many ways, it has its own unique grandeur and style. The art, engravings and architecture depicts the living history of the Cholas rule

Rajendra-I succeeded the Great Chola King, Raja Raja Cholan, and ruled the Chola dynasty for over three decades. 

Following the conquest of the Gangetic plains in A.D. 1023 Rajendra–I built  this city  Gangaikondacholapauram, the temple  Gangaikondacholisvarar and a lake Chola Gangam in commemoration of his victory. The place, the temple and the lake are the living embodiments of the heroism of the Tamils who unfurled the Chola‘s Tiger flag on the banks of the River Ganges.

Rajendra-I also shifted the capital from Thanjore to this newly built town and it remained the capital till the end of Chola Empire. 

This magnificent monument standing tall amongst  greenery in a quiet laidback town is definitely a must visit place in Tamilnadu.  

A little detour on NH 36 towards Chennai is another must see for its mere expanse, is the Veeranam or the Veeranarayanan Lake, the main water source for Chennai city. It is 14kms long and is one of the longest artificial lake in the world.  

This lake was constructed in 9th century AD by a Chola King Rajaditya. The opening chapter of the book *Ponniyin Selvan is set on the banks of this Lake. Kalki gives an elaborate description of the features of the lake and the way multiple rivers flow into it.

The drive takes you through picturesque view of the lake on one side and small hamlets on the other. There is a birds sighting spot along this stretch. Since we crossed this place around mid-day we stopped only for few minutes to awe at the blue expanse of water meeting the skies and click a picture... 

  *  https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ponniyin_Selvan