Escape To Thekkady, Kerala

Periyar Reserve, Spice Gardens, and Lake Safaris make Thekkady the ultimate Kerala escape, which can easily be combined with nearby Vagamon for a complete regional itinerary. 

This beautiful detour was an addition to our Vagamon weekend trip. Because our visit to the Periyar lake safari was unplanned, we had to wait in line for spot tickets and could only secure seats for the afternoon cruise. Yet, every journey holds its own unique charm, and this impromptu drive to Thekkady was no exception. 

Leaving behind the misty meadows of Vagamon, a scenic 1.5-hour drive covering roughly 45 kilometres via Elappara and Kuttikkanam took us down a winding, roller-coaster road framed by lush green streams and rolling tea estates. Nestled in the stunning Cardamom Hills, this area perfectly blends wild nature with agricultural beauty, where local spice plantations sit right next to the deep, protected Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

To reach the safari itself, visitors must leave their private vehicles at the Anavachal Parking Area and board the mandatory forest department shuttle buses. These eco-buses transport you directly through the protected forest zone to the boat landing and back. 

The highlight of this travel circuit is the 1.5-hour boat safari on Periyar Lake. This sprawling 26-square-kilometre artificial reservoir was formed in 1895 after British engineer John Pennycuick constructed the Mullaperiyar Dam across the Periyar River to divert water to drought-prone regions. This historic project submerged a dense river valley, leaving behind the iconic dead tree trunks that still poke above the water's surface today and transforming the man-made lake into the vital heart of a thriving forest ecosystem.

Cruising these waters gives us a front-row seat to wildlife gathering at the shoreline, making it highly likely to spot herds of wild elephants, sambar deer, gaur (Indian bison), wild boars, and smooth-coated otters. The lake is also a haven for vibrant birdlife like darters, egrets, and kingfishers resting on the submerged trees. 

To experience this smoothly, my advice to travellers is to plan a comprehensive itinerary, touring aromatic cardamom and pepper plantations and watching traditional Kalaripayattu martial arts in the evening. 

The park schedules five daily boat departures at 7:30 AM, 9:30 AM, 11:15 AM, 1:45 PM, and 3:30 PM, with the 7:30 AM morning slot being the absolute best for spotting animals in the crisp air. Because seats sell out rapidly, booking tickets well in advance online via the Periyar Tiger Reserve official website or the KTDC platform is highly recommended, costing around ₹150–₹255 for adults plus separate sanctuary entry and shuttle bus fees. 

The Chariot of the Sun, Konark, Odisha

Our visit to the Konark Sun Temple was part of a wedding trip to Odisha, and our tight itinerary could only squeeze in a few hours at this magnificent monument. 

Yet, the moment we approached it, we were met with an unparalleled visual treat. The entire structure is sculpted from Khondalite and Chlorite stones that beautifully shift colors in the changing sunlight, turning from a dusty golden amber in the afternoon to a deep, dramatic bronze at twilight.

This sensory masterpiece is a class apart of 13th-century engineering. Built around 1250 CE by King Narasimhadeva I of the Eastern Ganga Dynasty, the temple was erected to celebrate his military victories and assert his right to rule. Today, every square inch of the temple walls reads like a piece of "poetry in stone," featuring remarkabe carvings of celestial dancers, royal hunting processions, mythical beasts, and uninhibited erotic art.

The Sun temple structured like a chariot, is most famous for the brilliant harmony of art and astronomy. Its seven rearing stone horses symbolize the days of the week, while its twenty-four monumental wheels act as precise astronomical sundials that also represent the twelve months and signs of the zodiac. 

Historically dubbed the "Black Pagoda" by European sailors, the temple’s massive two-hundred-foot main tower collapsed over the centuries due to shifting coastal sands, severe cyclonic storms, and the loss of a mythical central magnet that legends say held its iron beams in perfect balance. Following sixteenth-century military raids and subsequent abandonment, the structure fell into dereliction. To prevent the complete collapse of the surviving assembly hall (Jagamohana), British engineers stepped in and filled its interior entirely with sand in 1901.

Beyond the shifting sands, a haunting local folklore hangs over this monument—the legend of Dharmapada. 

It is said that 1,200 artisans labored for twelve years but could not fix the temple’s heavy crown stone (kalash). Facing execution by the king if they failed, the chief architect’s twelve-year-old son, a prodigy named Dharmapada, secretly climbed to the peak under the cover of night and solved the structural puzzle. Yet, to protect the craftsmen from the king's wrath and ridicule, the young boy leaped from the temple's summit into the river below, trading his life for their glory. Locals whisper that the main tower ultimately fell because it was built upon the tragic tears of Dharmapada's sacrifice.

Today, this long-sealed monument is undergoing an extraordinary revival. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has commenced a delicate project to extract the century-old sand using non-vibrating mechanical tools and robotic trolleys. By safely relieving the immense internal pressure and installing a hidden steel framework, scientists hope to prevent an internal cave-in. Through this high-risk mission, archaeologists aim to protect the surviving architecture, discover hidden 13th-century panels, and finally decipher the exact physical causes behind the tragic fall of Konark’s grand tower.

As twilight faded and the first evening lights began to glow against the stone, the grand silhouette of the temple left a timeless impression. In its quiet majesty, Konark stands as a connect between the terrestrial and the cosmic—a stone chariot frozen in place, yet carrying the eternal spirit of ancient India forever forward into the light.

Belur & Halebidu, Karnataka

Our trip in March took us west toward Karnataka. Our destination was of newly crowned UNESCO World Heritage Sites known as the Sacred Ensembles of the Hoysala.

To truly appreciate these monuments, one must understand the fierce political and spiritual landscape of medieval South India. History says, a hill chief named Sala founded the Hoysala dynasty around 1060 CE in the Western Ghats. For decades, the Hoysalas lived as vassals to the Western Chalukya Empire. But everything changed when King Vishnuvardhana, a brilliant military strategist broke the shackles of subjugation by winning a legendary victory over the mighty Chola Empire at Talakad in 1116 AD. To permanently etch this triumph, Vishnuvardhana shifted the empire's focus from bloody warfare to mind-boggling artistic expression, commissioning the legendary Chennakeshava Temple. This kicked off a golden era where 12th-century artists treated dense grey soapstone not as rigid rock, but as soft, yielding wax.

Our journey began in Belur, sitting peacefully on the banks of the Yagachi River, where the star-shaped Chennakeshava Temple rises as a breathtaking tribute to Lord Vishnu. Stepping onto the wide stone courtyard instantly draws us into a maze of unbelievable detail. The 42 celestial dancers, or Madanikas, adorning the outer eaves, showcase precision. From a damsel admiring her reflection in a mirror to a panicked dancer shaking a lizard off her clothes, the craftsmanship is detailed enough to reveal individual stone beads, delicate fingernails, and entirely hollowed-out jewelry.

Chief among these is the famous Gravity Pillar, a massive stone column engineered to stand entirely on its own weight—so precisely balanced that guides can slide a thin piece of paper completely underneath it. Nearby stands the mesmerizing Narasimha Pillar. This intricately carved marvel once rotated freely on ball bearings, and it remains so densely blanketed in miniature deities that visitors practically need a magnifying glass to fully appreciate its microscopic grandeur. 

Next, a short drive through the rustic countryside bring us to Halebidu, the magnificent former capital once known as Dorasamudra. Here, the Hoysaleswara Temple stands as a massive, twin-shrined Shiva temple that feels less like a building and more like an endless, open-air art gallery. Even though past invasions left it roofless, the sheer structural genius on display takes your breath away. Walking along the base of the outer walls, we are flanked by an unbroken band of carvings stretching for hundreds of metres, featuring over 2,000 uniquely detailed elephants symbolizing strength, alongside lions for courage and horses. 

Guarding the entrances are two colossal, highly polished Nandi bulls, carved from single blocks of stone so perfectly burnished that they reflect light like smooth black glass. Just a short walk away, inside a walled complex holding three beautifully preserved Jain basadis (temples) and a hidden, geometric stepped well whose stone stairs sink elegantly into the earth.

Walking among these monuments makes us realize that the Hoysala masters did not just build places of worship; they left behind an interactive library of ancient life, fashion, engineering, and storytelling. It becomes profoundly clear that empires inevitably may crumble, dynasties fall, and rulers fade into the pages of textbooks, true art—trapped in grey soapstone nearly nine hundred years ago, still speak vividly to anyone willing to stop and listen.

Our long-time wishlist to visit this land of the Hoysalas finally got ticked off. It's truly a journey that bridges the gap between raw history and breathtaking art. The stones of the Hoysalas tells us a story that will be etched in our memories forever...

Sojourning the shores of Mahabalipuram, Tamilnadu

If you want to get immersed in vast stone boulders telling ancient stories through sculptures and carved caves, a visit to Mahabalipuram is a must.

A scenic 1.5 to 2-hour drive south of Chennai lies Mahabalipuram, a coastal town, home to some of India's most spectacular 7th-century UNESCO World Heritage monuments. From gravity-defying boulders, to intricate open-air canvases, these structural wonders showcase the pinnacle of Pallava artistry.

Whether you are an architecture enthusiast or a curious traveler, these four iconic sites deserve a prime spot on your travel bucket list.

1. Arjuna's Penance: 

Imagine a massive storytelling canvas carved across two giant granite boulders. Arjuna's Penance is an open-air relief that features over 100 intricately detailed sculptures of gods, sages, and remarkably realistic, life-sized elephants.

What makes this masterpiece truly legendary is its clever ancient engineering. The Pallava sculptors utilized a natural cleft between the rocks to channel water during heavy rains. This brilliant design perfectly mimics the mythical "Descent of the Ganga" river from the heavens, creating a living, piece of art.

2. Pancha Rathas: 

The Pancha Rathas represent an architectural laboratory from the Pallava reign. Instead of building from the ground up, ancient sculptors carved five distinct temple models out of a single, sloping pink granite hillside.

As you walk through the complex, you will see a fascinating experimentation with roof styles, floor plans, and elevations. It was this exact site that ultimately went on to define the classical Dravidian architecture. While the structures are popularly named after the epic Pandavas  from the Mahabharata, they actually hold no historical link to the characters.

3. Krishna’s Butterball:

No trip to this coastal town is complete without stopping by Krishna’s Butterball, a massive 250-tonne natural granite boulder that seems to completely defy the laws of physics.

Balancing precariously on a steep, smooth rock slope, this giant boulder has remained completely unmoved for centuries, surviving earthquakes, storms, and human attempts to slide it down. Today, it stands as the town’s most popular photo spot, where visitors love posing as if they are holding up the giant stone.

4. The Shore Temple: 

Perched right on the edge of the roaring ocean, The Shore Temple is a testament to timeless endurance. For over a millennium, this striking stone temple has stood its ground against the ocean’s salty fury and relentless erosion.

It captures pure magic at the break of dawn and turns profoundly mystical when darkness falls over the Bay of Bengal.

Know Before You Go

* Timings: All monuments are open daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM.The Shore Temple stays open till 9.00PM

* Tickets: A single, combined entry ticket covers all major monuments. It costs roughly ₹40 for Indian citizens and ₹600 for foreign nationals.

* Vehicle parking: There is ample free and paid parking spaces available near all monument locations.

Jagannath Temple, Puri, Orissa

A wedding in Bhubaneswar last year,  made our long awaited trip to the Jagannath temple, Puri, possible. 

The Jagannath Temple at Puri, Odisha, is a Hindu pilgrimage site and one of the Char Dham. This temple is dedicated to Lord Jagannath (Vishnu), and his siblings Balabhadra and Subhadra. 

Unlike most Hindu shrines that use stone or metal, the idols of the Gods are made of neem wood. These idols are  replaced every 12 to 19 years through a ceremony, Nabakalebara.

The story of Jagannath 

According to legends, the first Jagannath temple was commissioned by King Indradyumna. The king upon hearing the powers of the deity,  Lord Neela Madhaba sent a priest, Vidyapati, to locate the deity, which was worshipped secretly in a cave by the sarvar tribals. Vidyapati marked his way back from the cave and led King Indradyumna, to the place. But to their surprise the idol could not be found. The king took a fast at Mount Neela till a celestial voice guided him to build a temple. 

He constructed a temple for Lord Vishnu and following the divine vision, created the idols of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra, Subhadra, and Sudarshan chakra from sacred wood. 

It is believed Sage Narada was directed to bring the Divine Log of wood to the altar. Shri Visvakarma, disguised as a carpenter, came forward to carve the idols. He asked for 21 days to complete the job and not to be distributed. On the 14th day the anxious queen urged the king to open the door. At the altar stood the unfinished idols and the carpenter had vanished. A divine voice directed King Indradyumana to install the unfinished idols, at the temple near the Kalpabata tree. 

The Jagannath Temple at Puri, was built during the 12th century, and is a masterpiece of Kalinga architecture. It features a 65-meter tall curvilinear spire (Rekha Deula) and a massive complex spanning over 400,000 square feet. The structure consists of four main, interconnected halls—Vimana (sanctum), Jagamohan (porch), Natamandapa (dance hall), and Bhoga Mandapa (offering hall)—surrounded by high fortified walls, the Meghanada Pacheri. 

Sri Panduranga Temple, Tamilnadu 

The Thennangur Panduranga Temple in Tamil Nadu is modeled after the Puri Jagannath Temple in Odisha, featuring similar Kalinga-style architecture.The entrances of the temple are of gopurams (south Indian style) and the main shrine is that of the Puri Jagannath Temple.

 It features a 120-foot tall tower adorned with a gold kalasam, Sudarshana Chakra, and a saffron flag. The main idol, brought from Pandharpur by Swami Haridas Giri 500 years ago, depicts Lord Panduranga at 11 feet and his consort Rukmayee at 8.5 feet. This temple also includes rare idols, such as Achyutaraja Perumal, and a 16-pillared Maha-Mandap which is used for weddings and cultural activities during festivals.

 

Shravanabelagola, Karnataka

 

Shravanabelagola, is located about 150 km from Bangalore, Karnataka and has  been a significant center for Jain art, architecture, religion, and culture for over two thousand years. The town became prominent when Bhagawan Bhadrabahu, a key Jain Acharya, arrived from Ujjain with his disciples. Influenced by him, emperor Chandragupta Maurya settled in this area and passed his kingdom to his son to rule.

A notable landmark in Shravanabelagola is the 18-meter tall monolithic statue of Lord Gomateshwara, a revered Jain saint. It is situated atop Vidyangiri hill and is recognized as one of the tallest and most graceful monolithic statues in the world.   The statue is carved out of a single piece of granite and stands at 57 feet. It is regarded as one of the largest free-standing statues in the world. It symbolizes the Jains ideolgy of peace, non-violence, and renunciation. 

History of Lord Gomateshwara (Bahubali) 

Bahubali, the son of the first Jain Teerthankara, Lord Adinatha, fought his brother Bharatha for the throne in a duel that tested various skills. Although he won, Bahubali was disillusioned by the pursuit of material wealth and chose to renounce his kingdom and worldly pleasures. He entered in a deep meditation, embodying spiritual tranquility.  Bahubali meditated motionlessly in a standing position for a year, during which plants grew along his legs. After this period, he attained Kevala Gyana and became a respected figure among the Jain community.

In 981 AD, Chavundaraya, the prime minister of the Ganga Kingdom, commissioned a statue of Bahubali in this meditative pose. 

Nearby on Chandragiri, houses memorials and basadis of various other Jaina sramanas or monks who meditated and lived here, including the last Rashtrakuta king, Manyakheta.

Mahamastakabhisheka is a significant event held every twelve years at Shravanabelagola, where the statue of Bahubali is anointed with various substances, including water, turmeric, and gold flowers. This event draws thousands of tourists and pilgrims, with the next celebration planned for 2030.

Ambasamudram, Tamil Nadu

 

Ambasamudram, a charming town in Tamil Nadu's Tirunelveli district, is famous for its natural beauty and greenery, thanks to the mighty Thamirabarani River that flows through it. Also known as Vilankurichi, Ambasamudram has a rich history as the home of the revered saint Agastiyar, who made immense contributions to the Tamil language many centuries ago.

Thamirabharani river through the town 

This town is dotted with ancient temples and has many is a popular tourist spot, like the Mundanthurai-Kalakad Tiger Reserve,  the Papanasam dam, Agasthiyar falls, Manimutthaar Dam & Waterfall, Karaiyar Dam, Manjolai Hills, and Vikramasingapuram.

Manimuthar falls

 We made a two day halt at this town during our road trip, to take our time and explore it at leisure. The Ambai Grand hotel were we stayed was cozy and the local food available around it made our trip even more enjoyable. 

Manimuthar dam at the back

About 50 km from Tirunelveli, is the Manimuthar Dam, the largest reservoir in the district. It offers a serene spot with beautiful gardens, ideal for picnics. At 6 km from the dam is the Manimuthar Falls.  The Thamarabarani river tumbles down 25 ft into a serene pond, creating a natural fall to cool one's self. 

Agasthiyar falls

Ambasamudram is also home to man-made dams like the Papanasam dam and Karaiyar dam. Tourists flock in huge numbers to explore the Papanasam Waterfall, known for its mythological significance and is also known as the Agasthiyar falls.  

Hydro electric project in Papanasam

Another place of importance nestled in these hills is the ancient temple which has great relevance to devotees from all over. The Sori Muthu ayyanar temple, one of the six important sastha temples in Tamil Nadu. 

Sori Muthu Ayyanar temple

Sorimuthu Ayyanar serves as the kuladevata for numerous families residing in the region. Families who may not be familiar with their kuladevata are also encouraged to visit here and offer prayers. It is also the primary Ayyappan temple, where pilgrims embarking to Sabarimala visit this temple to receive their mala.

Kanniyakumari, Tamil Nadu

 

Kanniyakumari holds a distinct status in various aspects, and we had the opportunity to explore this remarkable destination during our road trip in August of the previous year.

Sunrise 

 Situated at the southernmost point of the Indian mainland, it possesses a unique geographical feature as it serves as the convergence point for three significant water bodies: the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and the Indian Ocean. This exceptional characteristic contributes to its status as one of the most sought-after destinations in India.

Owing to its strategic location, Kanniyakumari offers the rare opportunity to witness both the sunrise and sunset along its coastlines. Moreover, it stands as the sole location in India where one can observe the captivating phenomenon of the simultaneous occurrence of the sunset and moonrise during Full Moon days.

Vivekananda Rock 

Thiruvalluvar Statue

Among the notable attractions in this region, the Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the Statue of Thiruvalluvar hold immense popularity. These two landmarks are situated adjacently in the sea and can be conveniently accessed via frequent ferry services.

Memorial from the island