Ooty's Underground Water Battery, Tamilnadu

For a visitor, the Nilgiris appears as a peaceful sanctuary of lush tea gardens, misty forests, and the tranquil, glassy waters of Avalanche and Emerald lakes. But beneath this quiet wilderness lies a hidden world. Deep within the mountain rock, an intricate network of carved tunnels, massive underground chambers, and heavy machinery works entirely out of sight.

High in these ridges surrounding Ooty, lies a remarkable engineering marvel: the Kundah Hydro-Electric Scheme. Tucked away from view, this sprawling network of reservoirs and subterranean powerhouses has silently balanced and generated electricity for Tamil Nadu for decades.

The story goes back to the early 1960s, when the Kundah hydroelectric projects were developed with significant assistance from Canada under the Colombo Plan. The first powerhouses in the wider Kundah cascade became operational in the mid 1960s.

A few years later, construction moved deeper into the high-altitude forests. The Porthimund and Parsons Valley dams were completed in the late-1960s, adding more reservoirs to the system.

For decades, these reservoirs ran a traditional, one-way gravity system, channeling mountain runoff down to the 30 MW Kundah Power House 6 at Kattukuppai. Once that water spun the conventional turbine and drained into the lower lakes, it was gone. Six decades later, these old reservoirs are taking on a new role in the age of renewable energy.

While the original Power House 6 continues its traditional role, TANGEDCO and contractor MEIL have built a brand new, parallel system right next to it. The 500 MW Underground Pumped Storage Project (PSP) creates a closed-loop recycling circuit using the staggered highland reservoirs and works like a giant rechargeable battery, using water instead of chemicals.

Parsons Valley Reservoir is at about 2,200 metres above sea level. It acts as a feeder checkpoint, diverting highland streams through a 1.5 km underground tunnel. This system keeps the network primed apart from supplying water to this region. 

At the top of the pumped-storage system is Porthimund Reservoir, at about 2,220 metres above sea level. It acts as the upper reservoir, holding millions of cubic metres of water.

Below, at around 1,985 metres, lies the Avalanche-Emerald reservoir system, which forms the lower reservoir.

The difference in elevation between the upper and lower reservoirs gives the system its stored energy.

When electricity demand rises, water is released from Porthimund and sent rushing downhill through large underground pipes. Its force drives reversible turbines deep inside an underground powerhouse, generating electricity before the water settles in the lower reservoir.

It is much like switching on a giant battery—except the stored energy is water held high in the mountains.

When demand falls, particularly during off-peak hours, the process reverses.

Surplus electricity from the grid is used to run the turbines backwards. They become powerful pumps, pushing the water uphill from the Avalanche-Emerald lower reservoir back to Porthimund. The water is then ready to generate electricity again.

The same water can therefore move up and down repeatedly, allowing the system to store energy when it is available and release it when it is needed.

The most remarkable part of this project is that it retains the biodiversity without disturbing it. The landscape above remains an untouched haven of forests, lakes, and wildlife. Yet deep beneath it, water quietly flows through a hidden network of tunnels, storing energy and sustaining the power grid. Sometimes, the most impressive engineering is not what we see. It is what remains hidden, working quietly beneath our feet. 

Tribes Of Nilgiris, Ooty

The Nilgiri Hills stand at the lush green border of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala. The mountains get their name from the blue Neelakurinji flower, which blooms once every 12 years. 

Long ago, these hills were unapproachable, covered in thick, wild forests. Today, tea gardens and holiday resorts cover much of the landscape, a legacy of the British era.

Despite these changes, the Nilgiris remain home to several tribal communities which include, the Todas, Irulas, Kotas, Kurumbas, Paniyars, and Kattunayakans who live in pockets along this hill. Their lives have changed greatly since colonial rule, when ancestral lands were transformed into plantations and many were drawn into plantation labour. Today, the few who remain in these hills balance the modern life and at the same time preserve their ancestral culture and traditions.

Protecting this tribal heritage matters to us as these communities carry generations of knowledge about the land, medicinal plants, and ways of living in harmony with nature.

To preserve and document this heritage, the government established the Tribal Research Centre (TRC) in 1983 at Muthorai Palada, about 10 kilometres from Ooty. Its campus includes a Tribal Museum showcasing traditional weapons, pottery, jewellery, and other cultural artefacts, along with life-size replicas of indigenous dwellings, including the distinctive barrel-shaped Toda huts. With newly laid roads, this museum is open to public and is must-stop for anyone exploring Nilgiri Hills.

In a landscape transformed by roads, plantations, and modern tourism, this establishment quietly reminds us that the oldest stories of the Nilgiris do not live in its tea gardens or colonial buildings, but in the people who have called these hills home for centuries.

The TRC is situated along the Ooty–Avalanche Road, open Monday to Friday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. The entry fee is 50/ for adults & 25/ for children. It also offers a small collection of GI-tagged Toda embroidery for sale. 

Victoria Public Hall, Chennai

This crimson red building was a reminder to get off the bus during the mid 80s for my badminton training at the Corporation Indoor Stadium—now the Nehru Indoor Stadium. Back then, my journey would begin outside the Ega Theatre -waiting on the roadside to catch the MTC Route 15 or 15B bus. As the bus rattled down Poonamallee High Road—past Kilpauk Medical College and the grand old Dasaprakash Hotel—you didn’t tell the conductor you were heading to Victoria Public Hall. To every commuter and bus crew in Madras, this familiar transit landmark near the Ripon Building was universally known as the Picnic bus stop or the Ripon bus stop. While generations of young athletes and daily commuters used it as a visual milestone, none stepped past its gates as the building had  slipped into decades of neglect and bore an abandoned look.

Fast forward to today, those familiar red walls have finally awoken from their long slumber. The old Picnic hotel structures on its leased land are long gone, cleared to make way for the underground Chennai Central Metro station, but this heritage hall has been saved.

Following a massive ₹32.62-crore restoration under the Singara Chennai 2.0 project, the Greater Chennai Corporation has now officially reopened its doors to the public. The building has been completely transformed into a dynamic civic and cultural museum, ensuring its spaces echo with life once again. Visitors can now explore the ground floor's immersive exhibits showcasing Chennai's theatrical, sporting, and political evolution, as well as the magnificent first floor, which can seat 300 guests for grand cultural events.

The Victoria Public Hall is a striking masterpiece of Indo-Saracenic architecture, constructed between 1883 and 1888 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Designed by British architect Robert Fellowes Chisholm and built by legendary local contractor Diwan Bahadur Namperumal Chetty, it quickly became the cultural epicenter of colonial Madras. The hall is renowned in history as it hosted historic public addresses by Swami Vivekananda in 1897 and Mahatma Gandhi in 1915. It was also the cradle of regional social evolution, serving as the birthplace of the Justice Party in 1916 and also hosting Chennai’s very first public motion picture screening in 1896. Complete with vintage, Madras-themed outdoor photo spots featuring classic trams and rickshaws and with an audio show, this revitalized masterpiece seamlessly links the 1880s with the vibrant energy of modern Chennai.

This place definitely did, and will continue to, make me sojourn back to my nostalgic days walking around the lanes of this crimson town hall. It stands as a living bridge between the 80s youth who used it merely as a landmark to get off for daily sports practice, and the curious visitor who returned today. 

In a rapidly changing city, it reminds us that while time moves relentlessly forward, our memories are deeply anchored. When young, we rarely pay attention to the soul of such heritage spaces we pass through, but as matured adults, we look much more closely and reminisce ...

Hours & Tickets

Sunday - Saturday: 8 AM to 6 PM 

Tuesday - Closed 

Tickets -  Slots to be booked online at GCC website 

Escape To Thekkady, Kerala

Periyar Reserve, Spice Gardens, and Lake Safaris make Thekkady the ultimate Kerala escape, which can easily be combined with nearby Vagamon for a complete regional itinerary. 

This beautiful detour was an addition to our Vagamon weekend trip. Because our visit to the Periyar lake safari was unplanned, we had to wait in line for spot tickets and could only secure seats for the afternoon cruise. Yet, every journey holds its own unique charm, and this impromptu drive to Thekkady was no exception. 

Leaving behind the misty meadows of Vagamon, a scenic 1.5-hour drive covering roughly 45 kilometres via Elappara and Kuttikkanam took us down a winding, roller-coaster road framed by lush green streams and rolling tea estates. Nestled in the stunning Cardamom Hills, this area perfectly blends wild nature with agricultural beauty, where local spice plantations sit right next to the deep, protected Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

To reach the safari itself, visitors must leave their private vehicles at the Anavachal Parking Area and board the mandatory forest department shuttle buses. These eco-buses transport you directly through the protected forest zone to the boat landing and back. 

The highlight of this travel circuit is the 1.5-hour boat safari on Periyar Lake. This sprawling 26-square-kilometre artificial reservoir was formed in 1895 after British engineer John Pennycuick constructed the Mullaperiyar Dam across the Periyar River to divert water to drought-prone regions. This historic project submerged a dense river valley, leaving behind the iconic dead tree trunks that still poke above the water's surface today and transforming the man-made lake into the vital heart of a thriving forest ecosystem.

Cruising these waters gives us a front-row seat to wildlife gathering at the shoreline, making it highly likely to spot herds of wild elephants, sambar deer, gaur (Indian bison), wild boars, and smooth-coated otters. The lake is also a haven for vibrant birdlife like darters, egrets, and kingfishers resting on the submerged trees. 

To experience this smoothly, my advice to travellers is to plan a comprehensive itinerary, touring aromatic cardamom and pepper plantations and watching traditional Kalaripayattu martial arts in the evening. 

The park schedules five daily boat departures at 7:30 AM, 9:30 AM, 11:15 AM, 1:45 PM, and 3:30 PM, with the 7:30 AM morning slot being the absolute best for spotting animals in the crisp air. Because seats sell out rapidly, booking tickets well in advance online via the Periyar Tiger Reserve official website or the KTDC platform is highly recommended, costing around ₹150–₹255 for adults plus separate sanctuary entry and shuttle bus fees. 

The Chariot of the Sun, Konark, Odisha

Our visit to the Konark Sun Temple was part of a wedding trip to Odisha, and our tight itinerary could only squeeze in a few hours at this magnificent monument. 

Yet, the moment we approached it was an unparalleled visual treat. The entire structure is sculpted from Khondalite and Chlorite stones that beautifully shift colors in the changing sunlight, turning from a dusty golden amber in the afternoon to a deep, bronze at twilight.

This masterpiece is a class apart of 13th-century engineering. Built around 1250 CE by King Narasimhadeva I of the Eastern Ganga Dynasty, the temple was erected to celebrate his military victories and assert his right to rule. Today, every square inch of the temple walls is like a piece of "poetry in stone," featuring remarkable carvings of celestial dancers, royal hunting processions, mythical beasts, and uninhibited erotic art.

The Sun temple structured like a chariot, is most famous for the brilliant harmony of art and astronomy. Its seven rearing stone horses symbolize the days of the week, while its twenty-four monumental wheels act as precise astronomical sundials that also represent the twelve months and signs of the zodiac. 

Historically dubbed the "Black Pagoda" by European sailors, the temple’s massive two-hundred-foot main tower collapsed over the centuries due to shifting coastal sands, cyclonic storms, and the loss of a mythical central magnet that legends say held its iron beams in perfect balance. Following sixteenth-century military raids and subsequent abandonment, the structure fell into dereliction. To prevent the complete collapse of the surviving assembly hall (Jagamohana), British engineers stepped in and filled its interior entirely with sand in 1901.

Beyond the shifting sands, a haunting local folklore hangs over this monument—the legend of Dharmapada. 

It is said that 1,200 artisans labored for twelve years but could not fix the temple’s heavy crown stone (kalash). Facing execution by the king if they failed, the chief architect’s twelve-year-old son, a prodigy named Dharmapada, secretly climbed to the peak under the cover of night skies and solved the structural puzzle. But, to protect the craftsmen from the king's wrath and ridicule, the young boy lept from the temple's summit into the river below, sacrificing his life for their glory. Locals whisper that the main tower ultimately fell because it was built upon the tragic tears of Dharmapada's sacrifice.

Today, this long-sealed monument is undergoing an extraordinary revival. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has commenced a delicate project to extract the century-old sand using non-vibrating mechanical tools and robotic trolleys. By safely relieving the immense internal pressure and installing a hidden steel framework, scientists hope to prevent an internal cave-in. Through this high-risk mission, archaeologists aim to protect the surviving architecture, discover hidden 13th-century panels, and finally decipher the exact physical causes for the tragic fall of Konark’s grand tower.

As twilight faded and the first evening lights began to glow against the stone, the silhouette of the temple left a timeless impression. In its quiet majesty, Konark stands as a connect between the earth and the cosmic—a stone chariot frozen in place, yet carrying the eternal spirit of ancient India forever forward into the light.

Belur & Halebidu, Karnataka

Our trip in March took us west toward Karnataka. Our destination was of newly crowned UNESCO World Heritage Sites known as the Sacred Ensembles of the Hoysala.

To truly appreciate these monuments, one must understand the fierce political and spiritual landscape of medieval South India. History says, a hill chief named Sala founded the Hoysala dynasty around 1060 CE in the Western Ghats. For decades, the Hoysalas lived as vassals to the Western Chalukya Empire. But everything changed when King Vishnuvardhana, a brilliant military strategist broke the shackles of subjugation by winning a legendary victory over the mighty Chola Empire at Talakad in 1116 AD. To permanently etch this triumph, Vishnuvardhana shifted the empire's focus from bloody warfare to mind-boggling artistic expression, commissioning the legendary Chennakeshava Temple. This kicked off a golden era where 12th-century artists treated dense grey soapstone not as rigid rock, but as soft, yielding wax.

Our journey began in Belur, sitting peacefully on the banks of the Yagachi River, where the star-shaped Chennakeshava Temple rises as a breathtaking tribute to Lord Vishnu. Stepping onto the wide stone courtyard instantly draws us into a maze of unbelievable detail. The 42 celestial dancers, or Madanikas, adorning the outer eaves, showcase precision. From a damsel admiring her reflection in a mirror to a panicked dancer shaking a lizard off her clothes, the craftsmanship is detailed enough to reveal individual stone beads, delicate fingernails, and entirely hollowed-out jewelry.

Chief among these is the famous Gravity Pillar, a massive stone column engineered to stand entirely on its own weight—so precisely balanced that guides can slide a thin piece of paper completely underneath it. Nearby stands the mesmerizing Narasimha Pillar. This intricately carved marvel once rotated freely on ball bearings, and it remains so densely blanketed in miniature deities that visitors practically need a magnifying glass to fully appreciate its microscopic grandeur. 

Next, a short drive through the rustic countryside bring us to Halebidu, the magnificent former capital once known as Dorasamudra. Here, the Hoysaleswara Temple stands as a massive, twin-shrined Shiva temple that feels less like a building and more like an endless, open-air art gallery. Even though past invasions left it roofless, the sheer structural genius on display takes your breath away. Walking along the base of the outer walls, we are flanked by an unbroken band of carvings stretching for hundreds of metres, featuring over 2,000 uniquely detailed elephants symbolizing strength, alongside lions for courage and horses. 

Guarding the entrances are two colossal, highly polished Nandi bulls, carved from single blocks of stone so perfectly burnished that they reflect light like smooth black glass. Just a short walk away, inside a walled complex holding three beautifully preserved Jain basadis (temples) and a hidden, geometric stepped well whose stone stairs sink elegantly into the earth.

Walking among these monuments makes us realize that the Hoysala masters did not just build places of worship; they left behind an interactive library of ancient life, fashion, engineering, and storytelling. It becomes profoundly clear that empires inevitably may crumble, dynasties fall, and rulers fade into the pages of textbooks, true art—trapped in grey soapstone nearly nine hundred years ago, still speak vividly to anyone willing to stop and listen.

Our long-time wishlist to visit this land of the Hoysalas finally got ticked off. It's truly a journey that bridges the gap between raw history and breathtaking art. The stones of the Hoysalas tells us a story that will be etched in our memories forever...

Sojourning the shores of Mahabalipuram, Tamilnadu

If you want to get immersed in vast stone boulders telling ancient stories through sculptures and carved caves, a visit to Mahabalipuram is a must.

A scenic 1.5 to 2-hour drive south of Chennai lies Mahabalipuram, a coastal town, home to some of India's most spectacular 7th-century UNESCO World Heritage monuments. From gravity-defying boulders, to intricate open-air canvases, these structural wonders showcase the pinnacle of Pallava artistry.

Whether you are an architecture enthusiast or a curious traveler, these four iconic sites deserve a prime spot on your travel bucket list.

1. Arjuna's Penance: 

Imagine a massive storytelling canvas carved across two giant granite boulders. Arjuna's Penance is an open-air relief that features over 100 intricately detailed sculptures of gods, sages, and remarkably realistic, life-sized elephants.

What makes this masterpiece truly legendary is its clever ancient engineering. The Pallava sculptors utilized a natural cleft between the rocks to channel water during heavy rains. This brilliant design perfectly mimics the mythical "Descent of the Ganga" river from the heavens, creating a living, piece of art.

2. Pancha Rathas: 

The Pancha Rathas represent an architectural laboratory from the Pallava reign. Instead of building from the ground up, ancient sculptors carved five distinct temple models out of a single, sloping pink granite hillside.

As you walk through the complex, you will see a fascinating experimentation with roof styles, floor plans, and elevations. It was this exact site that ultimately went on to define the classical Dravidian architecture. While the structures are popularly named after the epic Pandavas  from the Mahabharata, they actually hold no historical link to the characters.

3. Krishna’s Butterball:

No trip to this coastal town is complete without stopping by Krishna’s Butterball, a massive 250-tonne natural granite boulder that seems to completely defy the laws of physics.

Balancing precariously on a steep, smooth rock slope, this giant boulder has remained completely unmoved for centuries, surviving earthquakes, storms, and human attempts to slide it down. Today, it stands as the town’s most popular photo spot, where visitors love posing as if they are holding up the giant stone.

4. The Shore Temple: 

Perched right on the edge of the roaring ocean, The Shore Temple is a testament to timeless endurance. For over a millennium, this striking stone temple has stood its ground against the ocean’s salty fury and relentless erosion.

It captures pure magic at the break of dawn and turns profoundly mystical when darkness falls over the Bay of Bengal.

Know Before You Go

* Timings: All monuments are open daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM.The Shore Temple stays open till 9.00PM

* Tickets: A single, combined entry ticket covers all major monuments. It costs roughly ₹40 for Indian citizens and ₹600 for foreign nationals.

* Vehicle parking: There is ample free and paid parking spaces available near all monument locations.

The Misty Lake

As we strolled on the path so neat,

With puddles splashing at our feet,

Overlooking the lake open wide,

Where tiny waves danced side by side.

We sat to watch the waters change,

From blue to grey, nature so strange!

The skies darkened with a frown,

And the clouds played around the town.

As mist moves in and softly spins,

Through drizzling rain, breeze begins..

Fading the scene in gloomy white,

Like sleepy toys tucked in for the night.

Winds on trees rustle through air,

To chase the mist and stir my hair.

As we bid adieu, the shadows grow,

We leave the lake for home's warm glow... 

Jagannath Temple, Puri, Orissa

A wedding in Bhubaneswar last year,  made our long awaited trip to the Jagannath temple, Puri, possible. 

The Jagannath Temple at Puri, Odisha, is a Hindu pilgrimage site and one of the Char Dham. This temple is dedicated to Lord Jagannath (Vishnu), and his siblings Balabhadra and Subhadra. 

Unlike most Hindu shrines that use stone or metal, the idols of the Gods are made of neem wood. These idols are  replaced every 12 to 19 years through a ceremony, Nabakalebara.

The story of Jagannath 

According to legends, the first Jagannath temple was commissioned by King Indradyumna. The king upon hearing the powers of the deity,  Lord Neela Madhaba sent a priest, Vidyapati, to locate the deity, which was worshipped secretly in a cave by the sarvar tribals. Vidyapati marked his way back from the cave and led King Indradyumna, to the place. But to their surprise the idol could not be found. The king took a fast at Mount Neela till a celestial voice guided him to build a temple. 

He constructed a temple for Lord Vishnu and following the divine vision, created the idols of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra, Subhadra, and Sudarshan chakra from sacred wood. 

It is believed Sage Narada was directed to bring the Divine Log of wood to the altar. Shri Visvakarma, disguised as a carpenter, came forward to carve the idols. He asked for 21 days to complete the job and not to be distributed. On the 14th day the anxious queen urged the king to open the door. At the altar stood the unfinished idols and the carpenter had vanished. A divine voice directed King Indradyumana to install the unfinished idols, at the temple near the Kalpabata tree. 

The Jagannath Temple at Puri, was built during the 12th century, and is a masterpiece of Kalinga architecture. It features a 65-meter tall curvilinear spire (Rekha Deula) and a massive complex spanning over 400,000 square feet. The structure consists of four main, interconnected halls—Vimana (sanctum), Jagamohan (porch), Natamandapa (dance hall), and Bhoga Mandapa (offering hall)—surrounded by high fortified walls, the Meghanada Pacheri. 

Sri Panduranga Temple, Tamilnadu 

The Thennangur Panduranga Temple in Tamil Nadu is modeled after the Puri Jagannath Temple in Odisha, featuring similar Kalinga-style architecture.The entrances of the temple are of gopurams (south Indian style) and the main shrine is that of the Puri Jagannath Temple.

 It features a 120-foot tall tower adorned with a gold kalasam, Sudarshana Chakra, and a saffron flag. The main idol, brought from Pandharpur by Swami Haridas Giri 500 years ago, depicts Lord Panduranga at 11 feet and his consort Rukmayee at 8.5 feet. This temple also includes rare idols, such as Achyutaraja Perumal, and a 16-pillared Maha-Mandap which is used for weddings and cultural activities during festivals.